Death Valley National Park

Death Valley National Park.

At about 3.4 million acres, the largest national park south of Alaska, Death Valley is known for extremes. Located in California and Nevada, it is North America’s driest and hottest spot, with fewer than two inches/five centimetres of rainfall annually and a record high of 134°F, and has the lowest elevation on the continent—282 feet below sea level. Even with its extremes, the park still receives nearly a million visitors each year. It was established as a national park on 31 October 1994.

In 1849 emigrants bound for California’s gold fields strayed into the 120-mile long basin, enduring a two-month ordeal of “hunger and thirst and awful silence.” One of the last to leave looked down from a mountain in the narrow valley and said, “Good-bye, Death Valley.” The moniker belies the beauty in this vast graben, the geological term for a sunken fragment of the Earth’s crust. Here are rocks sculptured by erosion, richly tinted mudstone hills and canyons, luminous dunes, lush oases, and a 200-square-mile salt pan surrounded by mountains, one of America’s greatest vertical rises. In some years spring rains trigger wildflower blooms amid more than a thousand varieties of plants. Native Americans, most recently the Shoshone, found ways to adapt to the more recent and forbidding desert conditions that exist here now. Rock art and artefacts indicate a human presence dating back at least 9,000 years. From 1883 to 1889, wagon teams hauled powdery white borax from mines since fallen to ruin, an enterprise that spread the word of Death Valley’s striking landscapes, deep solitude, and crystalline air. Named by gold prospectors struggling through the area in 1849, Death Valley has been inhabited by Timbisha Shoshone Native Americans; gold prospectors, including slaves; Chinese immigrants mining for silver and borax; Basque immigrants who settled here at the turn of the 20th century; and Japanese Americans temporarily interned here during World War II.

As night falls, Death Valley’s elusive populations of bobcats, kit foxes, and rodents venture out. Far above on steep mountain slopes, desert bighorn sheep forage among Joshua trees, scrubby junipers, and pines, while hawks soar on thermals rising into vivid blue, cloudless skies. The highest mountain in the park, 11,049-foot Telescope Peak, lies only 15 miles from Badwater Basin, the lowest point in the U.S. The vertical drop from the peak to Badwater Basin is twice the depth of the Grand Canyon. Credit: National Geographic Society.